On May 19, 1885 Jan Ernst Matzeliger’s revolutionary Shoe
Lasting Machine was introduced into production at a Lynn, Massachusetts factory. Within a few years American production of
factory made shoes exploded and costs per pair to consumers dropped more than
50% and Lynn became the center of a major industry.
Matzeliger’s road to being an inventor was
anything but ordinary. He was born in
1852 in Paramaribo, Dutch Guiana (now
Surinam) in South America of a Dutch engineer
and a local Black woman. Matzeliger inherited his father’s talent for machinery,
working with him at his machine shop from the age of 10 and mastering the
repair and maintenance of complicated machinery.
But despite his talents, his future was
clouded. As a creole or mulatto
he could not be sent to Holland for a professional education and he
was not well accepted either among the white colonial elite or the mostly African
and Indian local population.
At the age of 20 he signed on a merchant vessel
and spent two years as a seaman before deciding to settle in Philadelphia. Knowing only rudimentary English, he had
a hard time finding work until connecting to the local Black population through
church. They helped him find work
repairing equipment of various kinds before he got a steady job in a small shoe
maker’s shop.
Local shops like the one in which he worked still
made most of the shoes worn by Americans.
The introduction of heavy sewing machines and cutting equipment had
increased the speed at which shoemakers could produce their wares since the
“peg and awl” days of hand construction, but building finished shoes was still
a laborious, hand operation. Matzeliger
took to his new trade, but recognized that tools could be improved.
In 1877 he moved to Lynn, where nearly 50% of the
nation’s shoes were being produced in local factories. The Civil War had stimulated the need
for hundreds of thousands of pairs of shoes and boots to be manufactured
quickly to meet the needs of the Army.
Using the same mechanical equipment that Matzeliger found in the local
Philadelphia shop, companies were able to produce more by installing many cutting
and sewing machines.
But shaping the tops and attaching them to the
bottoms could not be mechanized and was done by highly skilled hand lasters who
stretched and shaped leather over wood or stone molds called lasts and
attached them to the soles. Even the
most skilled artisan could produce no more than 50 pair of shoes in a ten hour
day. The lasters were organized into a craft
union which was able to demand high wages.
After trying for months, Matzeliger was finally
able to get work in one of the local factories and began studying how the
master lasters manipulated the leather and began sketching ideas. He knew that he had to educate himself in
English to read and master technical information, so he attended night school
after his ten hour shifts. He lived a
lonely, isolated life as one of the few people of color in Lynn shunned by his
fellow workers. He lived in a cramped
room and found his only comfort in the fellowship of the local Congregational
Church, the only one in town that accepted Black members.
Slowly, Matzeliger began to find solutions to the
complicated puzzle and began to make models of a new machine from what ever
meager materials he had at hand—scrap wood, wire, a cigar box, bits of metal he
laboriously hand shaped. By the early
1880’s he knew he was onto something, but needed money to get the materials
needed to build a full scale working model.
Word of his tinkering got out, despite his
efforts at secrecy and he was pressured, if not threatened, by the skilled hand
lasters to abandon his project. But it
was also attracting interested potential buyers. He was offered first $50,000 and eventually
$1.5 million for the rights to his as yet unpatented machine.
Knowing its true value he would not sell. He held out until he got the money to finish
his model in exchange for a two-thirds share in the machine.
After completing his third model in 1883 he
applied for a patent. Patent Office officials
in Washington at first refused to believe that a machine could actually
do all of the complicated actions of a laster as many failed patents
attested. They sent an inspector to
witness the machine in action.
Astonishingly, it worked as advertized and Matzeliger’s patent was
granted.
His perfected machine held a shoe on a
last, gripped and pulled the leather down around the heel, set and drove in the
nails, and then discharged the completed shoe. It could produce up to 700 pair
of shoes a day.
After the 1885 introduction into
production, demand for Matzeliger’s machines soared. In 1889 the Consolidated Lasting Machine Company was formed with Matzeliger a
substantial minority owner. His future
seemed bright. He continued to work on
other improvements for shoe production and submitted five more patent
applications.
But before reaping the benefits of
his inventions, still living alone in a single room, Matzeliger died of
tuberculosis the same year. He left his
models and his stock in the new company to the congregation that took him in,
First Church in Lynn.
Lynn and near-by communities thrived
for generations as the center of the American shoe industry until the 1970s
when changing fashions to rubber-soled athletic style shoes and competition
from foreign manufactures decimated the industry. By the early 21st Century the American shoe industry made possible by Matzeliger
was defunct.
Matzeliger himself slipped into
obscurity until “rediscovered” by Black history researchers. He
was honored on a postage stamp on
September 15, 1991.
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