My distant kinswoman the British poet/memoirist/chef Geraldine Murfin-Shaw a/k/a Val Kirkham models a classic Mac and stylish purple boots in her famous garden. |
On October 12, 1823 Charles Macintosh, a 53 year old Scott, sold the first of his
breakthrough new raincoats, sure to be a hit in the soggy British Isles. He was a clerk as a young man who dabbled with
science on the side. By the age of twenty, he set himself up in business
as a manufacturer of chemicals. His inventive mind developed dozens of
new products and processes making him a very successful man.
But Macintosh really hit pay dirt
with his experiments with naphtha, a
volatile light weight by-product of coal
tar. He discovered that India
rubber could be made soluble in naphtha. This led to an application
to coat fabrics with the rubber. Eventually he patented a fabric made of
two thicknesses of rubber bonded together. After securing the patent, his
company, Charles Macintosh and Co. went
into production of raincoats.
Realizing the waterproof nature of
rubber or latex, there had been many attempts to use it in practical rain gear
over many years. During the American
Revolution the young Marquis de
Lafayette had arrived in the rebellious colonies with a rubber raincoat
packed in baggage. Unfortunately, he had wrapped the coat in newspaper,
which stuck to the gummy surface. He made a comical sight as he galloped
from Philadelphia for his first
meeting with General Washington with
scraps of paper stuck to his coat.
That was a common problem with
earlier attempts at using rubber in fabric. Macintosh’s product solved
many of these problems. But not all. There were still problems of
odor, stiffness in cold weather, and gumminess in heat. In 1830 he merged
his company with a competitor, Thomas
Hancock in Manchester.
Hancock had been doing his own experiments with rubber since 1813.
In 1853 Hancock took a patent out on
a process to stabilize rubber with sulfur at a high temperature. This
process was discovered independently in the United States by Charles
Goodyear in 1839 and patented by him in 1844, but not published until
Goodyear published a book on the subject in 1854. He called the process vulcanization, which came to be applied
to Hancock’s process as well.
With the old problems finally
entirely eliminated, sales really took off. The coats were known by the
name of their first inventor, but at some time the spelling of the garments
morphed to Mackintosh. They
were favored by those whose work required them to be out in bad weather for
extended time while keeping both hands free for labor. City folks who
mostly worked indoors continued their undying affection for the umbrella and
overcoats of tightly woven cloth for protection.
Farmers, fishermen, construction
workers, teamsters, and firemen on both sides of the Atlantic soon swore by
their Mac coats and other
raingear—pants, hats, capes, etc.
Mackintosh and its successor
companies continued to make and market their coats, which were also copied by
other manufacturers. But other methods of waterproofing fabrics and the
development of light weight plastic alternatives eroded the marked. By
the 1990s the company plant near Glasgow
was in danger of shutting down.
Investor and entrepreneur Daniel Dunko acquired the troubled
company and opened up new markets by partnering with top fashion including Gucci, Hermès, and Louis Vuitton to design up-scale,
fashionable rainwear for women and men featuring bold colors and bright prints.
These coats were especially successful in Japan
winning a Queens Award for Enterprise in
2000 for opening up new international markets for a British product.
In 2007 the honored British brand
was purchased by Yagi Tsusho, a
Japanese firm.
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