Michilee Beradini during the shoot for Louis Reard's first Bikini. |
On
July 5, 1946 war weary France was
given something explosive to shake out of the drab and depressing years of Nazi occupation. Designer Louis
Reard introduced a skimpy new two piece bathing suit whose very abbreviated
bottom was cut high on the thigh and well below the belly button. Since he expected his suit to really shake
things up, he named it the Bikini
because the Americans had set off a
highly publicized Atomic bomb test at Bikini Atoll in the Pacific
four days earlier.
When
it came to the photo shoot, Reard had
a hard time finding a model willing to expose herself in the skimpy
outfit. The usual run way and magazine photo models
were scared that the scandal would ruin their careers. Finally he found 18 year old Michilee Beradini, an amateur just trying to break into the business. She probably did not realize the risk she was
taking. Her fresh faced appeal may have
helped Reard’s cause
He
was not the first designer with the idea.
A few days before Jacques Heim had
unveiled a very similar suit that he called the atome. Maybe Reard had a better press agent, or maybe the Bikini was just a better name, but the
press went wild for his creation.
When pictures reached the U.S.
our still puritanical society was
predictably appalled and outraged. A
surprising amount of serious ink was
spent in editorial columns of major newspapers and “smart” magazines decrying the bathing suit and
tsk-tsking about plummeting morals.
Two piece suits themselves were nothing new. They had been worn stateside with little public comment
since the mid ‘30’s. The bottoms of
these suits, however, were essentially tight
fitting shorts, legs cut straight across and the tops modestly covering the
navel. The tops were armored breast-plate like bras covered with fabric and often
trimmed in pleated flounces to make
sure that no swelling flesh was
inadvertently exposed.
Annette Kellerman in the suit that got her busted. |
After all this is was a nation that was so shocked by a simple one piece tank suit in that authorities
arrested Australian swimming A champion
Annette Kellerman in 1907 for wearing
one on a Boston beach. Although her case helped overturn some of the
more draconian swimming dress codes,
heavy wool suits with skirts, and stockings as immortalized by the Keystone Bathing Beauties of the silent pictures did not disappear until the late ‘20’s.
Esther Williams’s Aquacade film
extravaganzas of the ‘40’s set off an
American interest in swimwear that
was figure flattering—if a girl had
William’s substantial curves—while
appropriately chaste.
Even in France the daring bikini took a while to take off with the
public. But after a young starlet named Brigitte Bardot wore one on the beach during the 1953 Cannes Film Festival that they became common
on the beaches of the Riviera. It took until about 1960 for bikinis to
become more than exotic curiosities
in the United States. Although
restrictions against them remained in force at most public beaches and pools, the rapid spread of private pools gave women places where they could actually wear the
little suites without being arrested.
Pools were becoming an expected attraction at the roadside motels catering to a nation
on wheels and the back yard pool
had gone from being a symbol of
ostentatious wealth to a common amenity of many middle class homes. Society as a whole was becoming more
relaxed—blame the pernicious influence of Hollywood
and Rock and Roll.
One of the many covers of Bran Hyland's hit. |
In 1960 Brian Hyland chronicled
the fate of a modest young woman and her new swim suit in his hit Itsy Bitsy
Teenie Weenie Yellow Polka Dot Bikini. The
popular teen beach and surfing movies of the decade helped
spread the craze, though beach queen Annette
Funicello herself never wore one.
In 1964 Sport Illustrated inaugurated
their annual Swimsuit Issue with a
model in a bikini on the cover. By ’67
even that staunch defender of middle class propriety, Time reported,
“65%
of the young set had already gone over,” to the bikini.
Of
course America still is behind Europe.
The topless suits seen now on
the Riviera or even the Brazilian thong bikini, standard
around the world, is still relatively rare on these shores.
No comments:
Post a Comment