A satalite view of Midway Atoll, its two largest islands and lagoon. |
Technically
the one of nothwestern outliers of the Hawaiian archipelago, Midway Atoll lies
in mid-Pacific isolation roughly half way between North America and Asia. It may have
been encountered by far-ranging
Polynesian mariners, but it apparently had never been inhabited when Captain N.C.
Middlebrooks a/k/a Captain Brooks of
the American sealer Gambia spotted it on July 5, 1859. He modestly named the small islands of the
atoll after himself and dubiously
claimed them under the Guano
Islands Act of 1856, which authorized
Americans to occupy uninhabited islands
temporarily to obtain guano they
highly prized bird poop used for fertilizer.
Despite the pretext neither the Captain nor no one after actually went
into the guano mining business.
Perhaps it was because the U.S. was
soon busy with its fratricidal Civil War,
but the lonely atoll was promptly mostly forgotten. Then in the years after the war some seamen began to think that it might be
a useful spot for long-at-sea whalers
or perhaps a fueling and water station for the burgeoning trade with China, Japan, and the Orient.
On August 28, 1867, Captain
William Reynolds of the USS Lackawanna formally took possession of the atoll
for the United States. Shortly after
that it’s was name changed to Midway on official charts. It was the first Pacific
island and overseas possession
annexed by the U.S. and was designated as the Unincorporated Territory of Midway Island administered by the Navy.
Captain William Reynolds of the USS Lackawanna formally claimed Midway in 1867 |
It was not an auspicious start for a far-flung
empire. It was so inconsequential that the British did not try to register any claim to the island as
they usually did to any speck in the Pacific. The problem was that the lagoon of the atoll, which might make
an attractive harbor was inaccessible to seagoing ships because of it impenetrable
reef.
Hoping to use the atoll as a coaling station, in 1871 the Pacific Mail Steamship Company
somehow—one suspects encouraging
emoluments may have changed hands—wrung money from Congress to attempt to blast
and dredge a passage through the reef. A
construction crew was landed,
evidently the first ever inhabitants.
The expensive project was a
failure and after a few months the Navy had to dispatch a ship to rescue
the abandoned and nearly starving workers. The USS Saginaw ran
aground on Kure Atoll,
40 miles further east of Midway stranding both its crew and the workers. Eventually all were rescued except for four
of the five intrepid souls who sailed to Kauai in an open boat
for help.
The atoll languished once again
unused for 32 more years until the Commercial
Pacific Cable Company established a supply
station for the ships laying that communications
link in 1903. Personnel at the station complained
to the Navy that Japanese fishermen were
visiting the islands and “poaching”
from the vast seabird rookeries. Surely they were not worried about the loss
of the birds. But they were probably
suspicious the Japanese were spying on
the cable project. So evidently was the
Navy which responded by establishing a radio
station for quick communication.
From 1904 and 1908, President
Theodore Roosevelt stationed a platoon
of 21 Marines assert U.S. sovereignty discourage further unauthorized
visits from the Japanese. That was
the beginning of the Navy’s on the islands.
The Midway Cable Station compound in 1913. |
Even the handful of civilians and Naval personnel had a devastating
effect on the atoll’s fragile
ecosystem by introducing many non-native
species including canaries, plants like cycad, Norfolk Island pine, she-oak,
coconut, and various deciduous trees, plus ants, cockroaches, termites,
centipedes, and other creepy-crawlers.
Through the 1930’s as Japan’s aggressive
expansionism became more threatening
Naval facilities on the atoll slowly grew and it became considered a strategic asset for the Pacific Fleet. But it got a major boost in public
consciousness in 1935 when Pan American
Airlines made it a stop for
their island hopping Martin M-130 flying
boats flying from San Francisco to
China. Pan Am built a luxury hotel
nicknamed the Gooneyville Lodge in
honor of the islands’ famous albatrosses
for the wealthy tourist laying
over between the stops in Honolulu and
Wake Island.
The Philippine Clipper, a Pan Am Martin M-130 flying boat, tied up in Midway lagoon. |
When tensions with Japan raised even
more sharply the Navy began major improvements to their Midway facilities in
1940 and ’41 with airstrips, gun emplacements, and a seaplane base quickly added. In February of ’41 President Franklin Roosevelt established the Midway Island Naval Defensive Sea Area and the Midway Island Naval Airspace Reservation to strictly control access
to the atoll by land and sea. Other than
the Pan Am flights, all non-Naval flights to the islands had to be personally
cleared by the Secretary of the Navy.
On December 7, 1949 the island defenses successfully repelled an
attack by Japanese destroyers
which was touted as the first American
victory of the war. Unlike Wake Island which fell after
withstanding air raids, naval bombardments, and one landing attempt before falling on
December 23, Midway remained in U.S.
hands, a virtual stationary aircraft
carrier deep in hostile waters. In February
another submarine based attack was
repulsed.
Of course Midway is most famous not
so much for what happened on the islands of the atoll—although they did come
under air attack—but for the epic battle in the vast ocean around it
that broke out on June 4, 1942.
The Japanese with a massive force of
4 aircraft carriers, 2 Battleships, 2 heavy cruisers, 1 light
cruiser, 12 destroyers, and 248 carrier-based aircraft hoped to lure the battered American carriers
into a trap, destroy the last
fighting capacity of the U.S. Navy, and capture Midway in preparation for an
assault on Hawaii. Instead Naval Intelligence
had cracked the Japanese code and
was fully aware of the operation. Admiral
Chester Nimitz, Commander in Chief of the United States Pacific Fleet (CinCPac) planned an ambush of the Japanese with an inferior force. He had at his disposal three of the Navy’s
surviving carriers—a taskforce including
the Enterprise
and Hornet under the temporary command of Admiral Raymond Spruance and another led by the damaged Yorktown
speeding from Pearl Harbor with
a slapped together air crew and
still under repair as she sailed
under Admiral Frank Jack Fletcher,
who had overall command of both
taskforces.
On Midway itself there were four squadrons of PBYs—for long-range
reconnaissance duties, and 6 brand-new TBF-1
Avengers; the Marine Corps 19 SBD Dauntlesses, 7 F4F-3 Wildcats, 17 SB2U-3
Vindicators dive bombers, and 21
F2A-3s, the latter two types of aircraft already obsolete; and the Army Airforce
a squadron of 17 B-17 Flying
Fortresses and 8 B-26 Marauders equipped
with torpedoes for a total of 126
aircraft.
An official U.S. Navy diorama of the Japanes air raid on Midway on June 4, 1942 which set off the great naval Battle of Midway. |
When the Japanese carrier force
attacked Midway, the U.S. Navy sprang
its trap. In three days of fighting the Imperial Navy lost all four of the they
had engaged—Akagi, Kaga, Soryu, and Hiryu
and a heavy cruiser. On the American
side the Yorktown was heavily damaged
and at the end torpedoed and sunk by an enemy submarine along with a
single destroyer.
The Americans lost just those two
ships, about 150 aircraft and 307 killed.
The Japanese lost the four carriers and the heavy cruiser plus a second
cruiser heavily damaged, 340 aircraft, and 3.057 killed. The lop-sided
victory ended Japanese naval superiority in the Pacific and cost ships,
planes, men—particularly pilots and aircraft technicians—which could not be
easily replaced while American industry and a vast reservoir of men quickly
greatly expanded their capacity.
Most historians consider the Battle of Midway to be the turning point of the war in the
Pacific.
After the battle the Navy beefed up
its Midway Naval Air Station and
built a foreword base for submarine
operations. Army Airforce heavy bombers
pounded Japanese controlled Wake Island and supported General Douglas MacArthur’s island hopping campaign.
The Naval Air Station,
decommissioned at war’s end, was recommissioned in support of the Korean War and continued in operations
through the Vietnam War. The Navy also had a top secret underwater listening post to monitor Soviet submarine activity and WV-2 Willy Victor radar aircraft flew
night and day as an extension of the Distant
Early Warning Line.
At the peak of the Cold War more than 3,000 Naval personnel
and civilian employees were station on the atoll, most at facilities on Sand Island. But the end of the Vietnam War and the
development of satellite technologies to
replace its intelligence gathering capabilities caused the Department of Defense to start winding
down activity. In 1978, the Navy
downgraded Midway from a Naval Air Station to a Naval Air Facility and large numbers of personnel and dependents
began leaving the island. In 1993 as
part of the Base Realignment and Closure
program the Navy closed all of its facilities although some personnel continued
to perform environmental clean-up,
mostly from oil spills and expended or un-exploded ordinance as
result of World War II action.
Previously World War II facilities
on Sand and Eastern Islands were designated National Register of Historic Places and National Historic Landmarks in 1987 and the whole atoll was made a National Wildlife Refuge for the tens
of thousands of sea birds in it rookery.
The Navy maintained control until President
Bill Clinton transferred jurisdiction to the Department of the Interior’s Fish and Wildlife service.
Today on Midway the seabird rookery coexists with relics of the World War II Battle at the Midway National Wildlife Refuge. |
There has been no regular passenger service to Midway
since the Navy closed its bases and no hotel facilities for tourists.
Periodically the atoll has been opened to specially organized ecotourism
and occasional tours for veterans and
military history buffs. The last program was suspended during the
government shut down face off in
2012 and never officially resumed, although special chartered flights can be
arranged. Last year less than 350 people
made the expensive visit.
There are no longer any permanent residents on Midway, although
at any given time there may be up to 40 FWS service personnel on temporary assignment there.
America’s first overseas possession
is now a part of the Papahānaumokuākea
Marine National Monument. It is an unorganized, unincorporated U.S. territory
and for statistical purposes it is listed as part of the U. S. Minor Outlying Islands.
The lonely atoll seems to be slipping back into the sleepy obscurity in which it was found
all of those years ago.
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