On May 19, 1885 Jan Ernst Matzeliger’s revolutionary Shoe Lasting Machine was introduced into production
at a Lynn, Massachusetts factory. Within a few years American production
of factory-made shoes exploded and costs per pair to consumers
dropped more than 50%. Lynn became the center
of a major industry.
Matzeliger’s
road to being an inventor was anything but ordinary. He was born in 1852 in Paramaribo, Dutch Guiana (now Surinam) in South America the son of a Dutch engineer and a local Black woman. Matzeliger inherited his
father’s talent for mechanical equipment, working with him at his
machine shop from the age of 10 and mastering the repair and
maintenance of complicated machinery.
But despite
his talents, his future was clouded.
As a creole or mulatto he could not be sent to Holland
for a professional education and he was not well accepted either among
the white colonial elite or the mostly African and native local population.
At the age of
20 he signed on a merchant vessel and spent two years as a seaman
before deciding to settle in Philadelphia.
Knowing only rudimentary
English, he had a hard time finding work until connecting to the local Black
population through church.
They helped him find work repairing equipment of various kinds before he
got a steady job in a small shoe maker’s shop.
Local shops
like the one in which he worked still made most of the shoes worn by
Americans. The introduction of heavy
sewing machines and cutting equipment had increased the speed at
which shoemakers could produce their wares since the peg and awl days of hand construction, but building finished shoes was still a laborious hand operation. Matzeliger took to his new trade, but
recognized that tools could be improved.
In 1877 he
moved to Lynn, where nearly 50% of the nation’s shoes were being produced in
local factories. The Civil War
had stimulated the need for hundreds of thousands of pairs of shoes and boots to be manufactured quickly to
meet the needs of the Army. Using
the same mechanical equipment that Matzeliger found in the local Philadelphia
shop, companies were able to produce more by installing many cutting and sewing
machines.
But shaping
the tops and attaching them to the bottoms
could not be mechanized and was done by highly skilled hand
lasters who stretched and shaped leather over wood or
stone molds called lasts and attached them to the soles. Even the most skilled artisan could
produce no more than 50 pair of shoes in a ten hour day. The lasters were organized into a craft
union which was able to demand high wages.
After trying
for months, Matzeliger was finally able to get work in one of the local
factories and began studying how the master lasters manipulated the
leather and began sketching ideas. He
knew that he had to educate himself in English to read and master technical
information, so he attended night school after his ten hour
shifts. He lived a lonely, isolated life
as one of the few people of color
in Lynn shunned by his fellow workers.
He lived in a cramped room and found his only comfort in
the fellowship of the local Congregational Church, the only one in town that accepted Black
members.
Slowly,
Matzeliger began to find solutions to the complicated puzzle and
began to make models of a new machine from whatever meager materials
he had at hand—scrap wood, wire, a cigar box, bits of metal
he laboriously hand shaped. By the early
1880’s he knew he was onto something but needed money to get the
materials to build a full scale working model.
Word of his tinkering
got out, despite his efforts at secrecy and he was pressured, if
not threatened, by the skilled hand lasters to abandon his
project. But it was also attracting
interested potential buyers. He
was offered first $50,000 and eventually $1.5 million for the rights to
his as yet unpatented machine.
Knowing its true
value he would not sell. He held
out until he got the money to finish his model in exchange for a two-thirds
share in the machine.
Mechanical drawings for Metzliger's shoe lasting machine and another improvement to shoe production, a tack distributor.
After
completing his third model in 1883 he applied for a patent. Patent Office officials in Washington
at first refused to believe that a machine could actually do all
of the complicated actions of a laster as many failed patents attested. They sent an inspector to witness the machine
in action. Astonishingly, it worked as
advertised and Matzeliger’s patent was granted.
His perfected
machine held a shoe on a last,
gripped and pulled the leather down around the heel, set and drove in the
nails, and then discharged the completed shoe. It could produce up to 700 pairs
of shoes a day.
An operator using Matzeliger's lasting machine on a busy factory floor. Completed shoes to his left.
After the 1885 introduction into production, demand for Matzeliger’s machines soared. In 1889 the Consolidated Lasting Machine Company was formed with Matzeliger a substantial minority owner. His future seemed bright. He continued to work on other improvements
for shoe production and submitted five more patent applications.
But before reaping the benefits of his inventions, still
living alone in a single room, Matzeliger died
of tuberculosis the same year. He left
his models and his stock in the new company to the congregation that took him in, the First Congregational Church in Lynn.
Lynn and near-by communities thrived for generations as the center of the American shoe industry
until the 1970s when changing fashions to rubber-soled
athletic style shoes and competition
from foreign manufactures decimated
the industry. By the early 21st Century the American shoe industry
made possible by Matzeliger was defunct.
The 1991 United States Postal Service stamp honoring Matzeliger and his machine.
Matzeliger himself slipped into obscurity until “rediscovered”
by Black history researchers. He was honored on a postage
stamp on September 15, 1991.
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